Unsurprisingly I felt rough after the night before. Dinner
at Simon and Babel’s house had involved much good food, beer, wine and chat,
but it was probably the variety of international drinking games at the beach
that pushed me over the edge. I managed to meet Ebenezer as usual at 8:30am and
grab breakfast before heading to the beach. I spent the morning sitting in the
shade at the Okorye tree trying to plan a science lesson the kids would
understand. The kids in the summer school program had been badgering me to do a
science lesson for over a week. I spent the morning researching. The cell, I’m
not sure they’d know what one is; Evolution, probably a bit controversial in a
highly Christian country; Gravity, too much maths; Food chains; possibly, but
my knowledge of Ghanaian ecosystems leaves a lot to be desired. My previous
science lesson about the planets a couple of weeks before was at best confusing
for them, although we did have some success. Still confused about what to teach
them I went for a surf to clear my head. Peter was meant to be giving me my
first surf lesson today but when I looked around for him I was told he had to
go to Accra last minute to pick someone up. I headed for the water anyway,
hoping it would give me some inspiration.
An idea struck me in the water. Surfing is great for
clearing your head. The state of mind you go in to is an almost meditative
state. Your mind clears completely. Time becomes distorted and irrelevant. All
you can think about is the waves rolling in and riding the waves. Scientists
call it flow. It is one of the reasons surfing is so addictive. Mind and body
cleansed I came in to the beach. I decided that the best thing to do was teach
them about rivers. There is a river that runs through the western side of the
town so at least they would have a reference point for what I was teaching and
could maybe pick up some of the principals of what I taught them.
I was wrong. I was going to teach them about the different
stages of a river and how it gets bigger and slower moving as it moves down
towards the sea or lake it feeds in to but we got stuck. Ebenezer and I spent a
full 30 minutes trying to explain to the class that water flows downhill to a
see of blank faces. I resorted to pouring water on to the desk and asking them
which way it would go but to no avail. No mater how much we explained or how
much water I poured the fact just wouldn’t sink in. It felt like pushing water
up hill. Though if I had told them that it would probably have confused them
more. Exhausted and frustrated we gave up and did a short maths quiz with the
kids before calling it a day. At least they would learn something.
When we finished I had a text from Simon saying they were
out at Black Mamba’s (the local reef/point (it’s kind of a bit of both, a rocky
reef lying underneath the water next to a point) break and to paddle out and
join them when I could. I grabbed my board and walked over the river, that was
still unrelentingly flowing downhill, on the bridge heading out of town. I
turned left at an opening in the fields and followed the dirt track down to the
point. It all looked a bit different to the previous time I had walked the have
a look at the point (but not surfed) and was beginning to think I had gone the
wrong way when luckily for me a local kid turned up on his bike. He had seen
people surfing the point and had come to watch. He assured me I was going the
right way and showed me the take off point on the rocks. I had to time my jump
with the wave coming in so I wouldn’t snag on any of the rocks and damage
myself, or worse Bettsy. Thankfully I timed it well and paddled the short
distance to the line-up to join Simon and Babel. The setting is beautiful. The
forest hugs the point to the west and south of you, all but obscuring the view
of half built buildings that you use to place yourself in the right spot to
catch the waves. The Island sits in clear view to the east of you. The waves
smashing against the rocky outcrops surrounding it and in the background the
beach stretches out for miles down towards the point that obscures Butre from
view. There was no one around apart from the one local boy sitting on the point
watching the obrunis slide the waves. We surfed for three long and happy hours.
Chatting away waiting for sets and catching long right handers when the waves
rolled in to the bay. Simon and Babel are good company. Simon hamming up his
Ozziness and teasing Babel, his girlfriend, who is Dutch with a distinct
Australian accent after so many years of being there and the waves were great.
The trickiest part is the takeoff. You have to line yourself up with a coconut
tree and the back right of one of the houses while checking you are not too far
inside and at the mercy of the walls of whitewater that would push you in
towards the rocky shoreline. The take off is steep and counterintuitive; you
have to paddle straight in towards the rocks a mere 10m away to catch them
rather than paddling for the relative safety of the shoulder before rising to
your feet as quick as possible and drive, or in my case fly down, towards the
open face. But the rewards are high The wave is ridiculously fun. Long open
walls and interesting sections to play with before the wave enters deeper water
and loses momentum. Then it’s a long paddle out back to the take-off where you do it all over
again.
The light was fading fast, arms were tired and the outgoing
tide was starting to expose the here to hidden rocks. It was time to make the
lond paddle around the point and head for home. Simon and Babel said they would
be heading out “When the sparrow farts” the next morning and that I should join
them. I agreed. When I reached the shore I was starving. 4 hours of surfing and
no lunch had taken its toll. I grabbed some bread and some ground nut
demolishing it in a matter of seconds before heading to coconut dream to chat
with Jan (one of the Slovenian librarians here). He played some western music
and bought me a beer as we sat and
chatted until tiredness overtook me and I headed off for some dinner and an
early night. I had to be up with the sparrow’s fart tomorrow after all.
Thursday 5th Septmeber – Morning Mamba
The sparrows fart (or dawn as anyone who isn’t massively
Australian calls it) at roughly 5:30am here but I woke at closer to 6am and
headed straight for Mamba paddling out from the beach. Simon and Babel were
already there. I took my Go-Pro out with me and good some nice videos. The dawn
was cool and clear increasing the beauty and solitude of the place from the
night before. The only sounds were that of the waves breaking and the birds
singing (or possibly farting). The waves were nice and we spent a good hour or
two catching waves. Simon had to be at work just after 8 so we paddled back in
at what we guessed was 7:45. I got back to Sabina’s at just after 8 and had my
usual omelet and coffee breakfast
before packing my bag for Kumasi. We were off on a 2 day trip to go and watch
the Black Stars take on Zambia in a crucial World Cup qualifying match. I went
to the office and met Eben where we quickly dashed off a covering letter for
our much delayed Ghanaian NGO application (BDSP is registered as an NGO in the
USA but is still going through the mountain of process here) we printed the
letter and grabbed our bags to begin our long journey north to Kumasi and
hopefully Black Star glory.
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